LED Underground and Inground Lights — IP67, Walk-Over and Drive-Over

Underground lights fail for one reason more than any other: water. A fixture that is sealed on the bench still breathes through its cable gland when the ground heats and cools, and a body that cannot drain fills with condensation until the LED board corrodes. We manufacture 60 inground models from 3W to 30W, and every one of them is designed around three details: a potted LED cavity, a drainage path that does not lead into that cavity, and a gasket that is compressed by a metal-to-metal stop rather than by tightening force.

The Range

Walk-Over vs Drive-Over

The load rating is not about the glass alone. A walk-over fixture typically uses 8–10 mm tempered glass and a die-cast body; a drive-over fixture needs 12 mm+ tempered glass, a stainless or reinforced flange, a body that transfers load to the surrounding paving rather than to the housing wall, and a recessed optic so that the glass carries the wheel load without point contact on the lens. If a vehicle will ever cross the fixture — including a maintenance van once a year — specify drive-over. The price difference is small compared with replacing a cracked fixture in finished paving.

Glare Control: Why Depth Matters

An inground uplight is almost always in the viewer's field of vision, so glare control is the difference between an elegant façade and a row of bright dots. Three methods, in order of effectiveness:

• Deep recess — the LED sits well below the glass so the beam is cut off at normal viewing angles. The most effective and the least expensive.
• Honeycomb or louvre — a grid above the optic blocks lateral view of the source. Good for tight beam angles.
• Asymmetric optic — throws light onto the wall rather than up into the sky, which also reduces light trespass and skyglow.

Installation Depth and Drainage

Standard bodies need a recess of 120–180 mm plus a gravel or drainage layer beneath. The common installation error is bedding the fixture in concrete with no drainage: water collects under the body and is drawn in as the fixture cools. We supply a butyl or silicone gasket and a gland sized to the cable, and we recommend a 100 mm gravel sump under each fixture in paved areas. For waterproofing details on a project, send us the paving build-up and we will confirm the recess dimension.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can cars drive over your inground lights?

Only the drive-over models, which are built with 12 mm+ tempered glass and a reinforced flange. Standard walk-over models will crack under a vehicle. Tell us at enquiry stage if any vehicle access is possible, including occasional maintenance vehicles.

Why does water appear inside my inground light?

Almost always because the body cannot drain and the cable gland is not the lowest point. As the fixture heats and cools it draws moist air through the gland; with no drainage path, that moisture condenses on the glass and eventually reaches the board. Correct installation — gland below the body, gravel sump beneath, and a potted LED cavity — prevents this. Our fixtures are potted, so even if moisture enters the optical chamber it cannot reach the electronics.

What is the difference between IP67 and IP68 for inground lights?

IP67 allows temporary immersion to 1 m for 30 minutes; IP68 is continuous immersion at a specified depth. For paving and plaza installations IP67 is sufficient. IP68 is only needed for fountains, pools and permanently submerged positions — and even then, the installation detail matters more than the rating on the label.

How deep do I need to dig to install them?

Plan for 150–200 mm for the fixture plus 100 mm of gravel drainage beneath. In concrete slabs you also need a recessed housing so the fixture sits flush with the finished surface and can be serviced from above.

Request a Quote

Send the application, the load requirement (walk-over or drive-over) and the paving detail, and we will confirm the model, recess dimension and price. Email jianguoli31@gmail.com · WhatsApp +86 155 2908 9983.

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